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| Royal blue | |
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The Phoenicians also made an indigo dye, sometimes referred to as royal blue or hyacinth purple, which was made from a closely related species of marine snail.
The Phoenicians established an ancillary production facility on the Iles Purpuraires at Mogador, in Morocco.[11] The gastropod harvested at this western Moroccan dye production facility was Hexaplex trunculus (mentioned above) also known by the older name Murex trunculus (Linnaeus, 1758).
This second species of dye murex is found today on the Mediterranean and Atlantic coasts of Europe and Africa (Spain and Portugal, Morocco, and the Canary Islands).[4]
[edit] Tags:Phoenicians,Dye,Marine,Hexaplex Trunculus,Atlantic,Indigo Dye,Iles Purpuraires,Mogador,Morocco,Murex Trunculus,Indigo,Purple, | |
| History | |
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Byzantine Emperor Justinian I clad in Tyrian purple, 6th-century mosaic at Basilica of San Vitale, Ravenna, Italy
Heracles and the Discovery of the Secret of Purple by Peter Paul Rubens, Musée Bonnat
Cuneiform tablet, dated 600-500BC, with instructions for dyeing wool purple and blue. Ref.BM62788 .
The colour-fast (non-fading) dye was an item of luxury trade, prized by Romans, who used it to colour ceremonial robes. It is believed that the intensity of the purple hue improved rather than faded as the dyed cloth aged. Vitruvius mentions the production of Tyrian purple from shellfish.[12] In his History of Animals, Aristotle described the shellfish from which Tyrian purple was obtained and the process of extracting the tissue that produced the dye.[13] Pliny the Elder described the production of Tyrian purple in his Natural History[14][15]:
“
The most favourable season for taking these fish [i.e., shellfish] is after the rising of the Dog-star, or else before spring; for when they have once discharged their waxy secretion, their juices have no consistency: this, however, is a fact unknown in the dyers' workshops, although it is a point of primary importance. After it is taken, the vein [i.e., hypobranchial gland] is extracted, which we have previously spoken of, to which it is requisite to add salt, a sextarius [about 1.2 kg] about to every hundred pounds of juice. It is sufficient to leave them to steep for a period of three days, and no more, for the fresher they are, the greater virtue there is in the liquor. It is then set to boil in vessels of tin [or lead], and every hundred amphoræ ought to be boiled down to five hundred pounds of dye, by the application of a moderate heat; for which purpose the vessel is placed at the end of a long funnel, which communicates with the furnace; while thus boiling, the liquor is skimmed from time to time, and with it the flesh, which necessarily adheres to the veins. About the tenth day, generally, the whole contents of the cauldron are in a liquefied state, upon which a fleece, from which the grease has been cleansed, is plunged into it by way of making trial; but until such time as the colour is found to satisfy the wishes of those preparing it, the liquor is still kept on the boil. The tint that inclines to red is looked upon as inferior to that which is of a blackish hue. The wool is left to lie in soak for five hours, and then, after carding it, it is thrown in again, until it has fully imbibed the colour.
”
Archaeological data from Tyre indicate that the snails were collected in large vats and left to decompose. This produced a hideous stench that was actually mentioned by ancient authors. Not much is known about the subsequent steps, and the actual ancient method for mass-producing the two murex dyes has not yet been successfully reconstructed; this special "blackish clotted blood" colour, which was prized above all others, is believed to be achieved by double-dipping the cloth, once in the indigo dye of H. trunculus and once in the purple-red dye of B. brandaris.[citation needed]
The Roman mythographer Julius Pollux, writing in the 2nd century BC, asserted (Onomasticon I, 45–49) that the purple dye was first discovered by Heracles, or rather, by his dog, whose mouth was stained purple from chewing on snails along the coast of the Levant. Recently, the archaeological discovery of substantial numbers of Murex shells on Crete suggests that the Minoans may have pioneered the extraction of Imperial purple centuries before the Tyrians. Dating from collocated pottery suggests the dye may have been produced during the Middle Minoan period in the 20th–18th century BC.[16] Accumulations of crushed murex shells from a hut at the site of Coppa Nevigata in southern Italy may indicate production of purple dye there from at least the 18th century BC.[17]
The production of Murex purple for the Byzantine court came to an abrupt end with the sack of Constantinople in 1204, the critical episode of the Fourth Crusade. David Jacoby concludes that "no Byzantine emperor nor any Latin ruler in former Byzantine territories could muster the financial resources required for the pursuit of murex purple production. On the other hand, murex fishing and dyeing with genuine purple are attested for Egypt in the tenth to 13th centuries."[18] By contrast, Jacoby finds that there are no mentions of purple fishing or dyeing, nor trade in the colourant in any Western source, even in the Frankish Levant. The European West turned instead to vermilion provided by the insect Kermes vermilio, known as grana, or crimson.
[edit] Tags:Shells,Tyrian,Latin,Snails,Hypobranchial Gland,Justinian I,Basilica Of San Vitale,Ravenna,Italy,Peter Paul Rubens,Musée Bonnat,Romans,Vitruvius,History Of Animals,Aristotle,Pliny The Elder,Natural History,Mythographer,Julius Pollux,Heracles,Levant,Crete,Minoans,Coppa Nevigata,Fourth Crusade,Vermilion,Kermes Vermilio,Crimson, | |
| Dye chemistry | |
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It has been suggested that this section be split into a new article titled 6,6'-dibromoindigo. (Discuss) Proposed since December 2011.
The main chemical constituent of the Tyrian dye was discovered by Paul Friedländer in 1909 to be 6,6′-dibromoindigo, a substance that had previously been synthesized in 1903. The dye was thus shown to be an organobromine compound.[19][20] However, it has never been synthesized commercially.[21][22]
In 1998, through a lengthy trial and error process, an English engineer named John Edmonds rediscovered the secret of how to dye Tyrian purple.[23][24] He researched recipes and observations of dyers from the 15th century to the 18th century. He explored the biotechnology process behind woad fermentation. After collaborating with a chemist, Edmonds hypothesized that an alkaline fermenting vat was necessary. He studied an incomplete ancient recipe for Tyrian purple recorded by Pliny the Elder. By altering the percentage of sea salt in the dye vat and adding potash, he was able to successfully dye wool a deep purple colour.[25]
[edit] Tags:Bromine,Organobromine Compound,Split,6,6'-dibromoindigo,Paul Friedländer,Woad, | |
| Tyrian purple | |
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The true colour Tyrian purple, like most high chroma pigments, cannot be accurately displayed on a computer display, nor are ancient reports entirely consistent, but these swatches give an indication of the likely range in which it appeared:
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This is the sRGB colour #990024, intended for viewing on an output device with a gamma of 2.2. It is a representation of RHS colour code 66A,[26] which has been equated to "Tyrian red",[27] a term which is often used as a synonym for Tyrian purple.
[edit] Tags: | |
| References | |
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6,6'-dibromoindigo, the major component of Tyrian purple
^ Theopompus, cited by Athenaeus (12:526) around 200 BC; according to Gulick, Charles Barton 1941. Athenaeus, The Deipnosophists. Cambridge: Harvard University Press.
^ David Jacoby, "Silk in Western Byzantium before the Fourth Crusade" in Trade, Commodities, and Shipping in the Medieval Mediterranean (1997) pp. 455f and notes 17-19.
^ Ziderman, I.I., 1986. Purple dye made from shellfish in antiquity. Review of Progress in Coloration, 16: 46-52.
^ a b c Radwin, G. E. and A. D'Attilio, 1986. Murex shells of the world. An illustrated guide to the Muricidae, p93, Stanford University Press, Stanford, California, USA, 284pp incl 192 figs. & 32 pls.
^ O. Elsner, "Solution of the enigmas of dyeing with Tyrian purple and the Biblical tekhelet", Dyes in history and Archaeology 10 (1992) p 14f.
^ Whelks and purple dye in Anglo-Saxon England. Carole P. Biggam. Department of English Language, University of Glasgow, Scotland, UK THE ARCHAEO+MALACOLOGY GROUP NEWSLETTER. Issue Number 9, March 2006. [1]
^ Benkendorff, Kirsten (1999-03) (PDF). Bioactive molluscan resources and their conservation: Biological and chemical studies on the egg masses of marine molluscs. University of Wollongong. Archived from the original on 2007-08-30. http://web.archive.org/web/20070830143907/http://www.library.uow.edu.au/adt-NWU/public/adt-NWU20011204.154039/index.html. Retrieved 2008-02-25.
^ Because of research by Benkendorff et al., the Tyrian purple precursor tyrindoleninone is being investigated as a potential antimicrobial agent with uses against multidrug resistant bacteria.
^ Jacoby, "Silk Economics and Cross-Cultural Artistic Interaction: Byzantium, the Muslim World, and the Christian West" Dumbarton Oaks Papers 58 (2004:197-240) p. 210.
^ Ambipolar organic field effect transistors and inverters with the natural material Tyrian Purple, E. D. Głowacki et al., AIP Advances 1, 042132 (2011)[2]
^ C.Michael Hogan, Mogador: Promontory Fort, The Megalithic Portal, ed. Andy Burnham, Nov 2, 2007 [3]
^ Vitruvius, De Architectura, Book VII, Chapter 13.
^ Aristotle, History of Animals (Whitefish, Montana, U.S.: Kessering Publishing, 2004), Book V, see especially pages 131-132.
^ Pliny the Elder, The Natural History, eds. John Bostock and H.T. Riley (London, England: Taylor and Francis, 1855), Book IX. The Natural History of Fishes. Chapter 62. Pliny discusses Tyrian purple in Chapters 60-65 of his Natural History.
^ The problem with Tyrian purple is that the precursor reacts very quickly with air and light to form a product (the dye) that is insoluble in water. (Hence Pliny says: "...when they [the shellfish] have once discharged their waxy secretion, their juices have no consistency....") The cumbersome process that Pliny describes is necessary to reverse the oxidation process and thus restore the water-soluble precursor, so that large masses of wool can be dyed conveniently. See: Carole P. Biggam (2006) "Knowledge of whelk dyes and pigments in Anglo-Saxon England," Anglo-Saxon England, vol. 35, pages 23-56; see especially pages 26-27. See also: C. J. Cooksey (2001) "Tyrian purple: 6,6’-Dibromoindigo and Related Compounds," Molecules, vol. 6, no. 9, pages 736–769, especially page 761. Indigo, which is chemically very similar to Tyrian purple, behaves similarly. See: http://www.indigopage.com/chemistry.htm .
^ Reese, David S. (1987). "Palaikastro Shells and Bronze Age Purple-Dye Production in the Mediterranean Basin," Annual of the British School of Archaeology at Athens, 82, 201-6); Stieglitz, Robert R. (1994), "The Minoan Origin of Tyrian Purple," Biblical Archaeologist, 57, 46-54.
^ Cazzella, Alberto & Maurizio Moscoloni. 1998. "Coppa Nevigata: un insediamento fortificato dell'eta del Bronzo," in Luciana Drago Troccoli (ed.), Scavi e ricerche archeologiche dell'Università di Roma La Sapienza, pp. 178-179.
^ Jacoby 2004, p. 210.
^ Friedlaender, P. (1909). "Zur Kenntnis des Farbstoffes des antiken Purpurs aus Murex brandaris" ([Contribution] to our knowledge of the ancient purple dye from Murex brandaris). Monatshefte für Chemie 30: 247
^ Sachs, F. & Kempf, R. (1903). "Über p-Halogen-o-nitrobenzaldehyde.". Ber. Dtsch. Chem. Ges. 36 (3): 3299–3303. doi:10.1002/cber.190303603113.
^ "Indigo". Encyclopædia Britannica. V (15th ed.). Chicago: Encyclopædia Britannica, Inc. 1981. pp. 338. ISBN 0-85229-378-X.
^ Cooksey C. J. (2001). "Tyrian purple: 6,6’-Dibromoindigo and Related Compounds" (PDF). Molecules 6 (9): 736–769. doi:10.3390/60900736. http://www.mdpi.org/molecules/papers/60900736.pdf.
^ John Edmonds, Tyrian or Imperial Purple: The Mystery of Imperial Purple Dyes, Historic Dye Series, no. 7 (Little Chalfont, Buckinghamshire, England: John Edwards, 2000).
^ Article about John Edmonds: http://www.imperial-purple.com/profile.html
^ Chenciner, Robert. Madder red: a history of luxury and trade: plant dyes and pigments in world commerce and art. Richmond: Curzon Press, 2000. P.295
^ "RHS, UCL and RGB Colors, gamma = 1.4, fan 2", Azalea Society of America website [4] (this gives the RGB value #b80049, which has been converted to #990024 for the sRGB gamma of 2.2)
^ Buck, G. Buck Rose Website, Page 5
[edit] Tags:Theopompus,Byzantium,Tekhelet,Antimicrobial,Murex Brandaris, | |
| External links | |
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Bibliography from Chris J. Cooksey (1994) "Making Tyrian purple," Dyes in History and Archaeology, vol. 13, pages 7–13.
The Free Library: article on Tyrian purple
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